From humble takeaways to grand temples of gastronomy, Australians embrace eating out with gusto and glee. We hunger at every option, with choice shaped only by whimsy, occasion and money in our pockets. But united we stand when it comes to the latter; customers' expectations soar in tandem with menu prices. To successfully take on South Australia's premium restaurant market is a tough call; few have the know-how to consistently deliver. It's rarefied territory but d'Arry's Verandah, with it's smart country style ambience, makes being a ‘fully paid-up member' look disarmingly easy.
For starters, take location. A contemporary floor-to-ceiling, glass-walled tasting room and dining area has been sympathetically wrapped around a quaint cottage, original home to the Osborn family, owners of d'Arenberg Wines. Perched over a vast criss-crossed valley of vines, the restaurant takes in McLaren Vale township and the stunning Aldinga Hills escarpment snaking across the horizon. With such visually seductive and hypnotic appeal, it's easy to forget the real reason you're here is to have a damn good meal.
In general, winery restaurant beverage options tend to be totally self-focused. Not at d'Arry's. Thirty odd current d'Arenberg releases supported by a list of lip-smacking museum treats, plus an additional eclectic menu of predominately European red and white tipples awaits. Budget-conscious novices, honed, educated palettes or cutting-edge professionals are accommodated with knowing, warm smiles. The best way to explore this Aladdin's Cave of nectars is via a wine flight. There are several, tailored to capacity and budget.
Waiting staff, under manager Jo Reschke's direction, are aware, pleasant, diligent and informed. It's a happy place to work, and this attitude flows through to the diner.
But the above details are simply support for food, the main act. Here the buck stops with joint head chefs, Peter Reschke and Nigel Rich - two enormous talents, magically firing off each other, yet continuing to strongly evolve creatively each day. Both trained and mentored by legendary master chef Peter Jarmer, they come with vast restaurant kitchen experience. Now factor in wild cards of harmonious relationships with local micro producers, freshness and amazing produce diversity coming through the kitchen door, and the result's a joyous symphony of flavours.
At the risk of being fractious, I'll avoid highlighting specific dishes. The menu leans heavily towards being a mobile seasonal feast.
Today's stand out winner may be unavailable tomorrow. While every effort's made to retain popular favourites, the temptation to add new treats is sometimes too hard to resist. The only constant is a plethora of flavours dancing across your tastebuds. If you fear choosing from the menu may prove an impossible challenge, bypass a la carte and order a degustation instead. A matrix of taste expressions, the culinary stars of the day will flow to your table. Exceptional regional cuisine that should not be missed! Phone. (08) 8323 8710; <www.darenberg.com.au >
The Sauce Restaurant, under proprietor Andrew Bruce's innovative direction, now woos patrons with additional new Saturday and Sunday brunch dining options. Start your weekend with smoked salmon, potato rosti and lashings of lemon butter sauce or, my favourite, chilli corn cakes, chorizo, rocket and tomato chutney. Yummy and truly delicious, as well as being a million miles away from weekday ‘joys' of simple cereals; even better when washed down with a glass or two of chilled Pizzini Brachetto, a moscato-style refresher. You can even pamper your pooch with Schmackos and a bowl of water. Now, let's hear three cheers and a ‘woof' for such a clever idea. 64 Dulwich Ave. Dulwich; phone (08) 8364 2310.
Awganix Brasserie is an appealing McLaren Vale restaurant, awaiting your discovery during a wine region escape. Intimate and visually stunning, with an all-glass-enclosed dining room studded with palms, it's sympathetically attached to an original 19th century settler's stone cottage housing a cosy bar and lounge. While New Zealand-trained chef Adam Byford's cuisine is essentially contemporary modern Australian, consultation with front-of-house partner Jacqui Craig has introduced a clever and unexpected twist. Vegetarians, vegans and coeliacs are actively welcome. With the former two, diners have personal flexibility to make diet choices, the latter none, dealt a black hand by fate.
Shrewdly, Adam and Jacqui have redefined kitchen preparation procedures, eliminating Russian roulette eating. The result is an enticing menu ensuring such issues have simply disappeared. For example, seafood crepe, filled with pan-fried prawns, scallops and salmon tossed in a brie sauce, makes a regular appearance. Delicious and totally gluten-free. Awganics Brasserie is also big on sensibly priced special events. Ask for their regular mail-outs to see what I mean. Cnr Main and Chalk Hill Rds. McLaren Vale; phone (08) 8323 8038; <www.awganix.com.au >.