Adelaide Grapewine

Great restaurant food and gambling mix together like oil and water. Right? They're simply totally incompatible. Well, Adelaide's Skycity top guns thought differently and shrewdly have brought in not one but two master tacticians to make the impossible a reality. The first is food and beverage manager, local lad Peter Morelli. ‘Lad' is a generous misnomer, but truth is that after years of hands-on experience, Peter is one of the most accomplished to be found - a pretty important requirement when dealing with the multitude of responsibilities demanded by such an organisation. Number two, executive chef Cobus Klopper, a South African-born whirlwind of pure energy, whose C.V. of international cooking achievements would put many peers double his age to shame.

First to get ‘the treatment' is North Restaurant, an attractive dining space combining historic Adelaide Railway Station architecture with contemporary sophistication, discreetly positioned on Station Rd. It's a location providing isolation from more obvious casino attractions. The menu reads well, with diverse offerings such as grilled haloumi with olive oil poached beetroot, tempura King George whiting with yuzu mayonnaise, pickled cucumber and nori puree. Or, perhaps, pan-roasted grain-fed Angus eye fillet with port wine chilli jus, NZ scampi, kale and cheese fondue. These are followed by eight desserts, including a diet-crashing creme brulee served with guava and tamarillo compote and sesame almond tuille. Finally you're hit with the  cruncher. All dishes, without exception, have deep, satisfying flavours. They sound good, look great and taste superb! Cobus describes the menu offerings as "simple, with top local ingredients enhanced by global flavours and techniques". All I can say is, if this is his vision of unfussy and uncomplicated, I can't wait to tuck in to examples given the five-star treatment!

Prices are pleasantly lower than Adelaide's prevailing restaurant average - and even cheaper on an abbreviated luncheon carte. There are excellent wines by glass and bottle, plus smooth professional service under charming maitre'd Vera Lynn's direction. North Tce, Adelaide; phone (08) 8218 4150; www.skycityadelaide.com.au

After winning both Fine Dining and Restaurant of the Year awards at Restaurant & Catering SA's 2008 gala knees-up, the team behind The Manse's success are having trouble dumbing down ear-to-ear grins. For owners Olivia and Matthew Trim, strong confirmation to focus only on restaurants has paid off in spades. And, perhaps, relief too, as rumour mill grindings indicate plans to add a contemporary New York style steakhouse, Green Grass, to their empire are well under way.

The Manse is ensconced within a former Baptist minister's residence, constructed in 1882.  Expect classic Victorian architecture with five intimate dining rooms and (working) open fireplaces. Decor exudes sophisticated savoir-faire. Well-spaced tables, each dressed with crisp, folded white linen and a noisette of fresh blooms, express the epiphany of refinement. To be blunt, this establishment's ambience shouts ‘special' in clear, thunder-loud tones!

But to take the gong for best of the best, another two key factors are mandatory. First, front of house service. Manager Oliver Field takes responsibility here, assisted by Leanne Altmann and sommelier Craig Phillips. Diners expect intuitive, intelligent and aware attention to be practised in a true high flyer and this is exactly what is delivered. And, drum roll please, finally the most important player in this trilogy, cuisine. Head chef Ayhan Erkoc brings a wealth of hands-on experience to The Manse menus from Sydney icon restaurants Marque and Pier. While he is classically trained, his willingness to explore the latest ideas in cooking technology and draw inspiration from overseas superstar chefs Michael Bras and Grant Achatz is part of his ongoing personal brief. The result, an ever-changing kaleidoscope of produce-driven, complex temptations, designed to delight even the most jaded palate. Dishes like caramelised veal sweetbreads, king prawn, walnut, apple with ‘tobacco powder,' or kingfish poached in black olive oil, foie gras mousse, celeriac, broccolini with sesame salt play delightfully with diners' tastebuds. Jerusalem artichoke veloute, Manjimup truffle, crisp garlic with taro and broad bean and magret duck breast with cannellini bean, globe artichoke, morels and ‘olive liquorice'-infused garlic custard, will blow you away. These are not simple plates any good cook can reproduce at home, but stunning examples of what a skilled master can achieve with a highly tuned kitchen brigade.

I suggest a glass of Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagne is a mandatory start your dinner, then when food choices are decided, hand over to the sommelier for suggestions of complimentary beverages to match your feast. Finally, sit back and enjoy one of the best gastronomic journeys Australia has on offer. 142 Tynte St. North Adelaide; phone (08) 8267 4636; www.themanserestaurant.com.au .