Brisbane Grapevine

For a couple of years, Cha Cha Char owner John Kilroy has been working on a new venture, created from the space that was previously reserved for a tunnel. Under the Riverside Centre and several neighbouring high rises, a space was left during construction for a tunnel to be built at a later date. Eventually the tunnel idea was shelved and John was able to make some pretty glamorous use of the space. 

Enter Jellyfish, a stylish, absolute waterfront restaurant that specialises in the procurement and delivery of great, fresh fish. The room is long and bright, with a crisp banquette running from one end to the other. Provincial, lime-washed chairs with criss-cross backs give a warmth to the room, into which light pours from the river. 

At Cha Cha Char, a multi-award-winning steak restaurant just up the river from Jellyfish, John has devoted an enormous amount of time and resources to providing diners with superb quality beef in its many guises. Now he is taking on fish and doing so with the same gusto as with beef.  The former grazier is also an avid fisherman, so the pattern makes sense. At Jellyfish, eight different species of fish are offered every day and their provenance is noted. They are all line-caught and suggestions are offered about the way they should be cooked and what sauces should accompany them. 

Unlike meat, fish comes in a vast array of different textures and quantums, so cooking methods are very important. Deep-fry a soft, fragile type like Moreton Bay whiting and you will overwhelm it. Big, oily fish don't poach so well, etc etc. So you can have your fish and eat it too, staff are educated about the various options that you can successfully mix and match but, make no mistake, batter at Jellyfish ain't batter. There are several different types, including curry, saffron, tempura, beer and tarragon and star anise.  Crumbs get the same treatment - sesame, Szechuan pepper, citrus and dill and parmesan crumbs, and your input on this is also requested. 

And it's not just fish that John is focusing on. Tomatoes and potatoes, two classic accompaniments for fish, are also under the microscope. Potatoes are offered in lots of different ways - crunchy Parisienne potato balls, creamy baked potato is layered and baked until golden, served in a delicious cube, there are shoestring fries, hand-cut chips and Paris mash. Three types of tomato salad are listed, as are other vegetable-based side dishes. There's also a full menu of entrees and mains that utilise lots of other shellfish, oysters and other ingredients. 123 Eagle St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3220 2202.

Another makeover, this one of mammoth proportions, has recently been unveiled at the Melbourne Hotel in the heart of West End. Formerly a nondescript local pub, the space has been entirely rebuilt and now houses a vast liquor barn and separate quality wine store, as well as several eateries including a cafe that opens onto the street, a large bistro, several bars and Twelve, the complex's fine dining venue. Twelve is located upstairs in a specially designed wine-centric space that opens out onto a balcony overlooking the road.  Formally outfitted with heavy armchairs and padded, white-clad tables, the walls act as a library for the cellar, which is voluminous to say the least. The menu is clever, dishes are stylised and wine-friendly and service is polished and very professional. 

For nearly three decades, chef Michel Bonnet has delivered his native, rustic French cuisine to an appreciative Queensland audience. He had several venues in Brisbane before sea-changing to Cairns to open C'est Bon in Lake St with the help of his daughter, Amelie. The pair then took on Melbourne with a venue of the same name and Amelie now runs the Melbourne branch, while Michel returned to Brisbane to open C'est Bon Mk 3. As with the first two, you will find a menu chock full of rural classics such as coq au vin, steak au poivre vert, cassoulet and duck a la orange. The wine list reaches around Australia, New Zealand and France with well-priced burgundies and other little treats that perfectly complement the beautifully executed menu. 609 Stanley St, Woolloongabba; phone (07) 3891 2008.

Over at Milton, there's been a baton change in the kitchen of Two Small Rooms.  Englishmen Simon Garbutt has moved, on leaving the head job free for former second chef Josue Lopez. The classically trained Salvadoran who now calls Australia home is just 24 and has already made a favourable impression on the loyal following of restaurant clients. Sustainability is important to Josue, who believes restaurants and primary producers can really benefit from a strong alliance. Two Small Rooms is a very popular suburban restaurant with a modern European-influenced menu and a stunning wine list.  Owner Peter Willumsen has amassed an eclectic collection of world wines that has twice earned him the honour of accreditation by prestigious American publication, Wine Spectator, for an outstanding wine list. 517 Milton Rd, Toowong; phone (07) 3371 5251