Perth Grapevine

It beats me why restaurants are buried in the bowels of some developments or tucked away in obscure places instead of taking advantage of sweeping views at higher levels. On the South Perth peninsula, the Red Cabbage (previously Reflections on the Swan) offers views over a main road intersection and traffic lights, whereas several floors above, the units have a panoramic vista over the Swan River to the south and Perth Water to the city in the north. I guess the returns are higher in selling units and penthouses than leasing restaurant spaces.

Notwithstanding the lack of inspiring views on this prime site, the Red Cabbage is a great place to dine. It is now run by young English chef Scott O'Sullivan, who was recently in the Halo kitchen only a couple of clicks away on the river in Perth city. Scott is a quiet sort of bloke who prefers to hide away in the kitchen with fellow English chef and mate Adam Sayles while his wife Hazel handles the front of house with aplomb.

Scott and Adam cook modern Aussie food (good on 'em) and their rendition here is excellent. I visit with a group and ravish some twice-cooked pork belly and duck cannelloni for entree and a main of wagyu shin and shank beef in a silky steamed suet pudding topped with a tempura oyster and sitting on a bed of pea puree and, you guessed it, red cabbage. Australian food, you might ask? Too right. It's a great mix of many cultural favourites. Both dishes are thoughtfully prepared and cooked, presented well and value-priced at just over $50 the two. There are seven side dishes of salads, vegetables and potatoes available but we have sufficient without them.

A signature dish, the Margaret River venison, tart of red-legged partridge, venison pate, pear, pineapple and cumin dressing is priced at $39. A small dessert list is on offer and I love the option of having a selection, with comprehensive descriptors, of one to five cheeses; one cheese $15, five cheeses $44, served with sticky fruit bread, lavosh, quince and pear puree and meadow honey, for those who like adornment. Red Cabbage is licensed, with wine by the glass, and there is plenty of free parking on site. 15 Labouchere Rd, South Perth; phone (08) 9367 5744.

In the 24 years that Warwick Lavis has been the boss at Matilda Bay Restaurant on the tranquil river foreshore at Crawley, he's been in charge of four major refurbs. He knows it is crucial for his restaurant to continue to look smart, especially as it is regarded as the state's most popular eating venue for tourists and visitors. He has recently completed a $2.5 million refit and that should keep everyone happy for another few years. It includes a spectacular new private Wine Room (20 seats) and Bubbles Bar that has a large selection of beers, wines and cocktails. I don't remember the Matilda Bay food being as good as it is right now, so here's another reason for a return visit to this angelic spot if you haven't been for a while. Phone (08) 9423 5000.

The gang at the Must Winebar in ‘close to Perth' Highgate has bought Vat 107 in the heart of downtown Margaret River and is set to revamp the place. Must chef and partner Russell Blaikie says it won't be a carbon copy of Must Highgate but will incorporate some of the signature elements for which this wine bar has become renowned. "It will have a diverse wine list, a great level of service, warm ambience and the incredible local produce will be the cornerstone of its menu with overtones of contemporary French bistro food at its core." says Russell, "I will oversee the menu development with head chef Chris Cheong, who will lead the kitchen team." Must Margaret River should be rocking by the time this issue hits the shelves in November. Must Highgate, phone (08) 9328 8255.

Another restaurant about to expand is GoGo's Madras Curry House, just up the road from Must Highgate, but in this case it's growing sideways. Owner GoGo tells me he's planning to open a wine house next door to his present popular address by Christmas. The authorities are tough on opening new hospitality venues in this busy area and, as this goes to print, he has yet to receive official approval. However, he is building a large selection of international wines for the new venture and hopes to serve them across the bar with Indian-inspired hors d'oeuvres. Dolcetto and dosa - can't wait to see that. Meanwhile, the curry house, with all its cricket paraphernalia, is building a very solid innings. GoGo himself is a cricket tragic and is internationally famous for welcoming visiting cricket teams to his Mount Lawley digs. Phone (08) 9328 1828.