Adelaide Grapevine

After a few months' trial, Nepenthe's 'Sunday Sessions' concept will become a regular cellar door feature from February 2009. Unlike boozy marathons at some rubberty-dubs, expect a far more cultured experience. Tasty gourmet pizzas from $9 (or cheese plates, priced per selection), plus glasses of premium bottle wine (from $4), form the foundations of the concept. Acoustic live music by local musicians, including the John Baker Duo and Mylo and Paul, add soul and harmony too. Good wine, tasty food and laid-back entertainment, packaged smartly at a budget-friendly price. Very appealing. Just grab a chair or rug and rock up, first and last Sunday of each month. Jones Rd. Balhannah; phone (08) 8388 4439; <www.nepenthe.com.au>,

While I remain unconvinced South Australia's public at large can discern between bistro and restaurant food styles, it hasn't stopped hospitality's peak body, Restaurant and Catering South Australia, selecting winners for both. Despite my concerns of ambiguity on such issues, I have to admit that Best Bistro award winner, Treasury on King William, is a very fine dining room indeed. Located on the edge of a tranquil, internal courtyard within Adelaide's historic Treasury building, it's no more than a few paces north from the pulsing frenzy of Victoria Square. Such an accolade seems reasonable after a little consideration. Owner Rob Parsons, despite his youthful, almost film star good looks, is a savvy, seasoned veteran, who has successfully swum through seas of 'wannabe' competitors for years.

Now bend a little closer so I can reveal his secret. Never take your eye off the ball and never, ever allow anything to come out of the kitchen that fails to measure up to diners' expectations. So much for philosophy, but what can punters expect? For starters, look carefully at anything with fish, shellfish and crustaceans. Rob's a self-confessed piscatorial nutter and plates like shellfish rouille of prawns, mussels, scallops, oysters, tomato, fennel and saffron and white wine, topped with roast capsicum aioli, are typical of his passion. Feathered meat freaks should home in on roast duck leg on a cassoulet of white bean and pork. Treasury's menu provides ideal fare suited to generous slurps of top drops of vino. Rob's 300-strong bottled wine list assists admirably in this quest. Unlike at many restaurants – sorry, bistros - listings wisely cater to those with shallow pockets as well as deep. Take your time scanning this tome as there's a sprinkling of exceptionally well priced 'treasures' awaiting discovery - a delightful bonus for customers with a keen sense of value. 144 King William St; phone (08) 8212 0499; <www.treasurykw.com>.

Pranzo's another establishment secretly holding Adelaide gourmands' tastebuds to ransom. The name roughly translates from the Italian 'let's lunch,' a subtle reference, I suspect, to eating hours confined to midday (and breakfast) Monday to Friday and the total absence of evening trade except private functions. But from here on, partners Abdulla Daher (front of house) and chef Haydn Fyfe's love affair with the northern hemisphere boot-shaped country becomes far less obtuse. For starters, the single rectangular room exudes a spartan French bistro feel. Pleasant and simple, with dark timber tables and chairs, no tablecloths and bold colour accents restricted to scatterings of wall-mounted paintings. It's almost as if decorative elements have been dumbed down to help patrons focus on the tantalising food flowing from the kitchen.

Haydn's inspired cuisine is underscored by strong European influences. Sure, there are hints of Italian, but the rich culinary traditions of France, Spain, even Scandinavia, get a share of the action. Alberto D'antonio, whose cooking talents have lifted many other restaurants' dishes to new highs, has recently joined the kitchen brigade. Both chefs fire off each other, passionate and resourceful, committed to using the freshest and finest ingredients they can get their hands on and determined to make every dish truly sing. The energy level's set at scorching, with daily specials almost exceeding those from the printed carte. And the food? Astonishingly delicious. I'm tempted, really tempted, to dispense with written and verbal lists and ask the staff bring me whatever these chefs recommend.

Pranzo's wine menu is left field as well, a blackboard inventory of an ever-evolving dozen or so. Rare artisan Australian gems mixed with the unexpected. Perhaps a voluptuous Roxan Montepulcia from Abruzzo or sublime Austrian Nigl Gruner Vetliner may appear. All available by bottle or glass and each in true harmony with cuisine. Hey, the coffee's great too! 46 Exchange Place, Adelaide; phone (08) 8231 0661; <www.pranzo.com.au>.