It may be a case of planning ahead or simply being patient as more places in Melbourne open with a no reservations policy. MoVida Next Door has opened up next door (obviously) to the extremely popular MoVida on Hosier Lane near Federation Square in the city. Owner/chef Frank Camorra has kept his fans happy and more of them fed by opening this tapas bar. The no reservations policy means first in, best seated or be prepared to wait.
In a room that has all the feisty New World spirit of MoVida, there's some Old World bravado as MoVida Next Door definitely creates its own character with high bar tables and a design that embraces the feel of a well-loved, worn-in classic tapas bar. It may feel the wait is worth it as Frank has designed a menu of tapas and raciones (larger dishes) that celebrate simplicity and origin of product with an understanding of flavours and the clever use of nurturing textures. Fried croquettes with jamon and Mahon cheese are instant comfort with bursts of salty sweetness, and the quail breast stuffed with chicken liver pate is a more-ish, balanced combination, particularly if matched with a tempranillo from the small, focused list built around approachable, quality Spanish wines. 164 Flinders St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9663 3038.
If you needed to be reminded that patience is a virtuous quality, a no reservations policy has seen diners eating early these days at Cumulus Inc. The early months of this new venture by Andrew McConnell, Pascale Gomes-McNabb and Jayden Ong have been enormously popular and have led to tables and bar seats filling early.
The open, modern space is welcoming and stimulating. White walls envelop the room, while the delights, pressures and concentration of the open kitchen are exposed to anyone sitting at the white marbled bar that borders it - balanced on the other side of the room by the bar proper - and dark wood tables occupy the space between, unclothed and simply dressed, which all lead to a strong focus on the quality of the food.
What will likely become signature dishes are already being established, such as a tumbler of salt cod soup with parsley - the parsley is made into a light green foam that floats on the soup, intense with the refreshing herb - and a confrontingly simple tin of Ortiz anchovies simply served as a salute to great product. Oysters feature heavily on the menu, with a selection from the Moonlight Flat Oysterage in Batemans Bay, NSW, and from Tasmania and South Australia.
The wine list is succinct, and knowledge for finding balance with the diverse menu is evident through Old and New World choices from some lesser-known producers along with some familiar, reputable labels. And, with Trumer Pils on tap, discerning beer drinkers are also considered. 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; phone (03) 9650 1445.
The Half Moon in Brighton has reopened under the new ownership of the Cornerstone Group (who also own The Botanical in South Yarra, among others businesses around the city). Paul Wilson, executive chef at The Botanical, is developing the vision for the hotel and has recruited chef Stephen Burke from the Courthouse Hotel in North Melbourne to run the kitchen in Brighton.
The menu here has a strong seafood focus. The Half Moon is considered, by its owners and staff, to be the more feminine, younger sister of the burly, meat-focused Botanical, and the restaurant menu in particular expresses this through dishes both familiar and a little kitsch, such as a 1970s-style prawn cocktail, or by moving into the present with peanut-crusted, seared yellowfin tuna. The fish of the day is made relevant to growing consumer concerns by including a wild, sustainable offering, and there farmed fish are available too. If you're not a seafood lover, the availability of great meat (through the Botanical connections) is highlighted in dishes like 400g Angus rib fillet with onion and bordelaise sauce.
There are many facets to the new Half Moon. As well as the restaurant, there is a cafe, open for breakfast and lunch, with a bar menu in the evening. The bar menu extends to the languidly cool bar area out the back (complete with flat-screen television on the wall) and warmer weather will bring lazy, long Sunday afternoons complete with a DJ.
The wine list supports the general ethos of a seafood emphasis by having eight sparkling whites and champagnes by the glass and a list that has a well-chosen and well-priced list of white and red wines that are nearly all Victorian but with a generous nod to other Australian states and New Zealand - all in all, a sound recognition of local and regional drops.
With the interior design by well-known Melbourne design team BURO architects, the Half Moon has a similar aesthetic to the Botanical - lots of clean lines given warmth with wood finishes and texture enhanced with dramatic lighting - but there's a softer edge, with gentler hues and an overall upmarket pub feel. 120 Church St, Brighton; phone (03) 9591 0611.