Limestone

Flurry of festivals

FEW wine regions in Australia are home to as many festivals as Coonawarra. Highlights of the year include the Coonawarra Vignerons Cup race day celebrations each January, the Coonawarra After Dark Festival, held each April to coincide with the picking of the grapes, the Penola Coonawarra Arts Festival in May, Coonawarra Cellar Dwellers in July, when wineries offer tastings of their aged wines, and the Cabernet Celebrations and Barrel Auction in October, which feature over 50 tastings, concerts, vineyard tours and dinners.

The winemakers of Coonawarra also head off on the road to interstate capitals each August and September to show off their wares in the Coonawarra Wine Tasting Roadshow. "Because we're a long way from the capital cities we have to make a real effort so people can see all that we have to offer," says Mel Hollick of Hollick Wines.

See www.coonawarra.org

Small region, big advantage

MOUNT Benson is one of the more remote wine regions in South Australia, with its coastal location giving it respite from the extreme heat that plagued several regions of the state during the 2008 vintage. Norfolk Rise Vineyard winemaker Kristen McGann says: "We are in a pretty unique location here and this year it really helped us."

Situated between the coastal towns of Kingston and Robe on the southern tip of SA, Mount Benson and the Norfolk Rise vineyards benefit from a unique microclimate. At just 600 hectares, Mount Benson is one of the smallest wine regions in Australia. The fertile and free-draining nature of the limestone soil provides the base for the terra rossa soils that have made the entire Limestone Coast famous.

The boutique Norfolk Rise vineyard and winery is an attractive place to visit. The winery houses some of the world's most advanced equipment while maintaining a boutique, traditional feel. See www.norfolkrise.com.au

Chefs in regional focus

COONAWARRA foodies have joined together to promote the region's winery restaurants and community herb garden. Pipers of Penola, Upstairs at Hollick and The Poplars, all linked to leading local wineries, joined forces to launch the new Coonawarra Chefs brochure. The brochure has been created to increase awareness of Coonawarra as a culinary tourism destination and to complement the region's reputation as a producer of fine wines. Chefs involved are Simon Bowen from Pipers of Penola, whose family runs Bowen Estate, Ian Perry from Upstairs at Hollick at the Hollick winery, and Fiona Luestner from Poplars. The brochure is available from regional visitors' centres.

Meanwhile, Coonawarra winemakers are celebrating a successful 2008 harvest, having escaped the intense heat that plagued their colleagues in the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Wayne Stehbens, winemaker at Katnook Estate since 1980, reported an early start and very early finish to vintage but said the whites "generally display good varietal distinction" while the reds "had small berries, open bunches and thick skins, which produced great colour and good tannins".

"It's early days but current indications are that we can expect some exciting wines from the 2008 harvest," Wayne says. Brian Lynn from Majella agrees: "We are very happy with the quality of the grapes and winemaker Bruce Gregory believes we'll make some fantastic wines."

Voyages of discovery

HOLIDAYMAKERS cruising on P&O ships Pacific Dawn and Pacific Sun are sometimes fortunate enough to enjoy onboard tastings hosted by the likes of Katnook Estate winemaker Wayne Stehbens. P&O Cruises recently announced a move to ditch international wine brands in support of local winemakers and create a new onboard wine list that includes four Katnook Estate wines: Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon; Founder's Block Sparkling Shiraz; Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon and Founder's Block Chardonnay.

Wayne conducted a series of tastings on the Pacific Dawn in October, Duane Roy from Hunter Valley winery Glandore Estate was on board in September and more tastings are in the pipeline. For more information and bookings contact P&O Cruises on 13 24 69. 

Zema's hive of activity

THERE'S always something happening at Zema Estate, which not only produces outstanding Coonawarra wines but is also home to one of the friendliest cellar doors in the region. Throughout November the Zema family celebrate their Italian heritage with tastings and sales of family matriarch Francesca Zema's produce, as well as offering some pointers on the best way to enjoy it. On Sunday, November 23, the winery hosts the second annual Zema Estate Bocce Tournament. Visitors are welcome to join in or simply relax with a glass of wine and watch the action from the verandah. Light lunches are available.

Throughout December there are holiday season specials and complimentary gift wrapping, as well as decadent fare for that perfect Christmas gift. In January, the Zemas will feature cups of refreshing Everest gelati, while throughout the rest of the year there are regular tastings, cooking classes, vine sculpture exhibitions, wine and chocolate matchings and a range of other activities. And there is always the chance to try the family's estate-grown, hand-pruned, minimally irrigated and intensely flavoured wines. Zema Estate is on the Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra, and is open seven days a week 9am-5pm. See www.zema.com.au.

Stairway to food heaven

UPSTAIRS at Hollick is the only winery restaurant in the Coonawarra district - and is certainly one of the best in the country. There can be few better spots to while away an hour or two than Hollick, with a tasting of winemaker Matt Caldersmith's thoroughly modern wines followed by lunch overlooking the Neilson's Block vineyard or the winery's barrel storage room.

The Upstairs team produces outstanding modern Australian cuisine that is beautifully presented - and there are daily specials. Standout recent dishes have included blue swimmer crab and salmon cakes with wakame seaweed salad and ginger lemongrass broth ($17), and wild rabbit with Swiss brown mushroom and pancetta ragout, orecchiette pasta and gremolata ($26). The innovative menu is complemented by an extensive wine list featuring Hollick wines and an eclectic selection of local and imported wines, including offerings from France, Italy, Spain and New Zealand.

Upstairs at Hollick is open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday and dinner on Friday and Saturday nights. Several Hollick wines are available exclusively at cellar door and visitors can also purchase Upstairs produce, including balsamic glaze and chardonnay lees mustard prepared by the chefs. Phone (08) 8737 2318; <www.hollick.com>.

Redman's remarkable year

IT HAS been a big year for the Redman family, who are celebrating 100 years of winemaking in Coonawarra - and the addition to their team of fourth-generation winemaker Dan Redman. The Redmans are also offering tastings and sales at their cellar door of a new, limited-release premium wine, The Redman ($70). The initial release is an impressive 2002 blend of cabernet and shiraz - only the fourth wine in the Redman range, along with the shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet merlot.

Bucking the industry trend, all are still bottled under cork (pro cork or diam) because winemaker Bruce Redman says all his wines are made for the long haul. Good news for visitors is that several older vintages are available at the cellar door.

The Redman winemaking tradition started with Dan's great-grandfather, Bill Redman, in 1908. Today brothers Bruce and Mal Redman make the wine after taking over from their father, Owen Redman, in 1982. See <www.redman.com.au>.