It looks like West Australian-born winemaker Francine Austin has found herself a second home in the cool climes of Tasmania. Francine has been winemaker/manager of Bay of Fires Winery - living on-site - since 2002. But her journey south has been far from direct. With a bachelor of science (oenology) degree from Adelaide University in hand, Francine took up a post at Domaine Chandon with sparkling winemaker Tony Jordan in 1995. A year later she hit the road to develop her craft - Matanzus Creek winery in America's Sonoma County, several months with the joint venture of Heemskerk and Rochecombe, a vintage at Oregon's Argyle Winery, back to Petaluma in the Adelaide Hills - working as a cellar hand with Brian Croser and the winemaking team - and then a vintage in the south-west of France as a flying winemaker with Cellarworld International. Fran finally returned to Perth in 1999, taking on the role of in-field winemaker at Houghton before joining the winemaking team at the Swan Valley site. Next stop, Tasmania - and since heading south, the 33-year-old has never looked back. The past six years have seen Fran build her reputation and notch up several major accolades. In addition to being named Young Winemaker of the Year in 2005, she has also enjoyed significant success at the Young Gun of the Year Awards - as a finalist in 2007 and short-listed in 2008.
Relate the tale of your very first wine experience.
Back in the early '80s my mum used to make this great dessert she called "champagne ice" for dinner parties. It consisted of a sparkling white wine mixed with orange syrup and Cointreau, frozen as a sorbet (fancy, I know, and great on a balmy WA evening). One time she over-catered and had about a litre of the stuff left over. The next morning my sister and I decided we were suitably sophisticated to warrant a small sample, but it was so tasty we polished the lot off for breakfast. My folks woke up to find a couple of very drowsy little girls. In retrospect, maybe that's where my interest in sparkling wine first started!
Who has been the most influential person in your career to date and what was the greatest lesson they taught you?
I've been very fortunate to work with many inspirational people in this industry, so it's hard to name just one. In recent years, Paul Laspley and Tom Newton - who have been my mentors in red and white winemaking respectively - have both been very influential. In their own ways they have both taught me the same thing: making great wine takes hard work and attention to detail, but (as importantly) you need to have some guts. You have to be prepared to experiment and try new things. Constantly evaluating your winemaking in an objective manner is what really improves your knowledge, and that's what makes a great winemaker.
What's your favourite part of the whole winemaking process?
I love the fermentation process. The wines change so much through that time. What I find fascinating is looking at the juices, finalising the winemaking plan, setting the yeast in motion, tasting the ferments every day and seeing if it turns out the way I'd predicted. Fermentation seems such a basic natural process at first glance, but the metabolism effect on flavour compounds is incredibly complex. And thank God for that - otherwise wine would probably be made by a machine by now.
Name the best bottle of wine you've ever consumed and describe the circumstances in which it was drunk.
The best bottle of wine I've enjoyed recently (and considering the circumstances in which it was consumed) was the 2001 Tasmania Blanc de Blanc, made by Ed Carr. My partner's birthday falls right in the middle of vintage, so usually I like to organise some great surprise for him. Unfortunately, this year was so busy I just didn't get around to it. I was at work feeling pretty guilty, and as the day came to an end I was wracking my brains trying to think of something I could do to make him feel special. Suddenly I remembered the bottle of '01 Blanc de Blanc that had been left over from a recent tasting. I had, at least, managed to organise a couple of friends to come for dinner, and when I poured this wine all was forgiven. Although it will still be aged for another three years, it is already exquisite, and everyone felt very special to be getting a sneak preview. It was very memorable, and the pure uniqueness of it certainly saved my skin.
What takes pride of place in your own wine collection at the moment?
'95 Armand Rousseau Clos de La Roche, my favourite producer in Burgundy. When I first took the winemaking position here at Bay of Fires Winery, a good friend who was working in the wine trade in London sent me a mixed box of Burgundy to give me something to aim for. Most of them have already been opened, studied and enjoyed, but this bottle will be consumed when the said friend finally makes it to Tassie for a visit. Dave, we are waiting.
What's the unique aspect of producing wine in Tasmania?
Winemaking down here flies in the face of many of the basic principles of good Australian winemaking practice. Chilling, eliminating oxygen from the processing and juice clarification need to be re-thought, being mindful that ambient temperatures are much colder during harvest, the natural acidities are very high and the concentration of aromatic flavour compounds are elevated.
Where's the most unusual place you've ever consumed wine?
The first time I worked in France I held a consultant winemaking position with a cave cooperative in the south-west, just north of Armagnac. Everyone drank more Armagnac than table wine, and also a very rough spirit called eau de vie - which means ‘water of life' - distilled from pear wine. At the end of vintage, the cooperative got a really good price for their table wines from their Scottish wholesaler, so the head winemaker took us out for lunch and for a tour of the region to celebrate. One of the places he took us to was a very old pear orchard belonging to the family that owned the oldest still and distilling licence in the region. The weather was very cold by then and the ground frozen, but the family's great-grandfather was there in the backyard stoking the still, wearing a pair of hand-carved wooden clogs, bless him. We stood outside with him in the cold and drank eau de vie, and it was actually really good.
In career terms, where do you envisage yourself in 10 years?
Driving a sports car with the top back, having a mid-life crisis, I expect. Stoli-and-a-Bolli anyone? No, honestly, I'll still be making wine in Tasmania. I've been here seven vintages so far, and each one has thrown out different challenges. I could stay here for the next 50 years and still be learning - by then the vineyards will really be hitting their straps.
What's the one rule you always follow when it comes to drinking wine?
I like to have food with wine. Drinking wine always starts me thinking about what to cook/where to eat/what cheese I have in the fridge. I can't say it's a rule I always follow, but I get more enjoyment out of wine when I do.
Do you have a soft spot for any one particular wine variety?
Pinot noir. I love drinking it and I love making it. It's great as an aperitif, with the main meal or as a nightcap. It goes well with my favourite dessert - poached quince with St Augur cheese. It's full of surprises - a moderate-coloured wine in the glass can deliver unexpected power on the palate. Pinot noir is a wonderful variety that often makes me smile.
As a young winemaker yourself, what do you see as being the main difference between the new breed of young winemakers and those people who were perhaps mentors for you in your formative years?
I think the new breed of young winemakers has a greater focus on environmental and social responsibilities. There is more awareness in our culture now than ever before of issues in these areas, and I think the new generation of winemakers feel they have the resources and opportunity to make a difference.