Pinot noir seems to be developing quite a following these days. Just as sauvignon blanc has taken over from chardonnay as the fashionable lunch white wine, it could be argued that those who have moved away from the big red reputation that shiraz/syrah seems to have now look to pinot for their inspiration. (Merlot had a chance, but the movie Sideways may have put paid to that direction)!
While we defer to the Old World region of Burgundy as the yardstick for this style, there is no reason why the New World style of cool climate Australia and, in particular, the sun-drenched southern climes of New Zealand, cannot equally produce great pinot, albeit in a more muscular frame!
In our annual pinot noir tasting featured in this issue, we judged over 300 Australasian pinots, a reflection of the interest that is out there for this variety. Part of the reason for this influx was the great number of Kiwi pinots that found their way across the ‘ditch'. Not content to dominate the sauvignon blanc market, New Zealand wine companies are pushing ahead with red wine sales into Australia, which has now become their biggest export market. It makes for great competition which tends to lift value and, we hope, quality overall as consumers enjoy a wider range of choices.
In this tasting it was pleasing to see a trend away from producing big dry red styles from this grape. As I jokingly said a few years ago in a similar editorial, "Shiraz winemakers should not be allowed to make pinot!" This is one wine where you do want to experience the varietal character and see the fruit express itself. A touch of green fruit is perhaps more acceptable here than it would be with any other red varietal, giving the wine natural acid and grape tannin backbone. The term "iron fist in a velvet glove" is the oft-used term for a good Burgundy.
Continuing along the pinot path this issue is our annual champagne and sparkling wine tasting, and it is interesting to see the difference that pinot noir makes to the blend.
Here we have blanc de blanc (100 per cent white grapes, invariably chardonnay) and blanc de noir, where a portion of pinot noir and/or pinot meunier makes up the numbers, along with chardonnay. Whereas the straight blanc de blancs offer fine, elegant structure to the wine, pinot noir adds texture and broadens the flavour, with more mouthfilling grape tannin backbone.
Whether as an elegant, midweight red wine or as part of a bubbly experience, pinot noir has a lot to offer. In our tastings in this issue we search out the best of each style.
Cheers
Peter Simic