Sangiovese scandal fades
IN ITALY the Brunello di Montalcino scandal seems nearly to have run its course. Exports to the US have not been dented by the furore about the possibility that grapes other than sangiovese are reported to have been found in Brunello, a wine that by law must contain only sangiovese. Indeed, global exports of the 2003 vintage, the one in question, soared by nearly 50 per cent in the first half of this year, despite the police investigation.
Wines from producers as illustrious as Antinori, Argiano Banfi and Frescobaldi were originally implicated. Different grapes may be grown in the same region, but they are used for wines other than the Brunello di Montalcino appellation.
Wine defies the pub gloom
HERE in the UK, five pubs a day (yes, day) may be closing due to the credit crunch and the smoking ban (no smoking in public buildings since July 1, 2007), but wine consumption is still looking rosy. In fact, a recent online survey of regular wine drinkers found nearly half are drinking more wine than they did three years ago. And in the same period, the number of drinkers enjoying pink wine has risen by over 60 per cent, at the marginal expense of reds. It used to be that we'd drink a bit of pink wine in the summer weeks (ha, ha), but we've been downing the rose as we've been drowning in this, one of our rainiest summers on record. It's also felt like one of the coldest but the Met Office have said this summer was the 20th warmest on record, and records go back not quite 100 years. Clearly rose has become mainstream in the UK. Think and drink pink seems to be the new marketing message.
Scots jump on under-age drinkers
ROSE consumption may be on the rise, but alcohol is dividing the UK with the need to reduce alcohol-related harm, and the Scottish government seems set on a course to divide the nation with its own draconian alcohol legislation, which aims to bring in minimum pricing on drinks, ban promotions and increase the minimum age for purchasing alcohol to 21.
Other organisations, notably the Wine and Spirit Trade Association, which represents the whole of the wine and spirit supply chain, including in Scotland, and which lobbies government on their behalf, pointed out that existing legislation is not being effectively enforced, and this should be done before additional, knee-jerk legislation is brought in. In a recent report, the WSTA "showed that despite concerns over problem licensees, only 15 had their licenses revoked in 2006, eight in 2005, and seven each in 2004 and 2003, the latest available data".
They also reported that the latest statistics showed few under-18s are prosecuted for purchasing drinks, citing Scotland, where "there were only 131 recorded offences for buying alcohol under age; but action was only taken against seven, of whom two were admonished and only five received a fine". If the Scots go ahead with their plans, trade in the north of England is likely to boom, as Scots within striking distance of the border are more than likely to head south to buy in bulk. And where the UK once saw 'white van man' trade between Calais in northern France and southern England, the opportunities may look too sweet on the Anglo-Scottish border.
Masters go more global
ELSEWHERE in the UK, there's been much excitement at the election of the Institute of Masters of Wine's first non-British chairman, Austrian Pepi Schuller, and first London-based South African vice-chair. As an MW, I declare my vested interest, but it is hoped the appointments signal another new phase in the increasing internationalisation of one of the toughest, most aspirational, professional wine bodies to join. Just 21 years ago, the institute invited international candidates to apply, and it was Australia's very own Michael Hill Smith who became the first non-Brit MW, in what marked the beginning of a new era of globalisation for what is regarded as a pinnacle of excellence in the wine industry. Now more than one third of the membership is non-British, 70 per cent of the student body comes from outside the UK, and Pepi Schuller has vowed to extend the international reach and relevance of the MW. Australia now has a very creditable 17 MWs.
South of France builds momentum
OVER in the south of France, the region is still working to unite itself under the 'Sud de France/South of France' banner. This is a region combining nearly all the winemaking capacity of Languedoc and Roussillon, which means it produces about a third of all France's wine - appellation wine as well as vins de pays. This makes the soon-to-be unified region a bigger producer than the whole of Australia. Even with the small 2008 harvest in France, this would mean the south of France is producing about 15 million hectolitres. That's still a couple of million more than the Aussie 2008 harvest, which is getting back on track despite the ongoing drought.
The south of France has long been touted in Europe as a 'new world in the old world' type of area which could play Australia at its own game on the international stage. Sadly, it's yet to achieve too much of this potential. Certainly it's warm and sunny and can make ripe, sunshine-y wines. But the infrastructure and attitudes remain stolidly French, which means individuality is at the fore, and collaboration to make successful, high-volume brands doesn't really exist. A couple of Australian companies even invested in the region some years ago to create just such brands, but both have now sold out because even they couldn't make it work.
The area is at least getting on track with organic cultivation, and over 400 producers are now certified organic, which is an increase of 16 per cent, accounting for nearly 30 per cent of all France's organic vineyards. However, this is only in line with the total vineyard area, so there is still plenty of potential to be realised.
But in a wider European context, France is surging ahead: recent figures show that out of the four big producers of Spain, Italy, France and Portugal, France has two-thirds of the total organic vineyards and production.