KERRI THOMPSON
For Clare Valley winemaker Kerri Thompson, starting her own wine business - KT and the Falcon - in 2007 was the realisation of a long-held dream. Teaming up with grapegrower Steve Farrugia (the Falcon), it was the chance to put into practice her passion for the environment and for producing hand-crafted wines with drinkability. Her underlying philosophy is simple: keep it regional, sustainable and real. Sourcing fruit from both their own 20-acre farm between the townships of Watervale and Leasingham - as well as naturally farmed grapes from the Watervale Peglidis and Churinga vineyards - the business uses biodynamic and organic practices to produce wines which are truly reflective of the region. Before starting out on her own, Kerri spent nine years as winemaker/manager of one of the Clare Valley's oldest wineries - Leasingham Wines. In her 17 years in the industry she has also worked vintages at McLaren Vale and overseas in Tuscany and Beaujolais.
What was the most daunting part of establishing your own wine label?
Making that giant leap of faith and working on my own. Never underestimate how important it is to surround yourself with good people. You soon work out where your strengths lie.
Two years on, what's the most rewarding aspect?
The creative freedom to take the wines where I want them to go. I love being able to wake up and say to myself, "I'm going to do this today because it's making me happy!"
What's the best way of teaching wine appreciation?
Without rules. We need to demystify the process to make people more comfortable. It should be with a glass in hand and thinking about how it makes us feel. Looking at shape, texture and if it makes your hips sway or puts a smile on your face.
Name the most memorable bottle of wine you've ever consumed.
Being passionate about riesling I was fortunate enough to once share a bottle of the 1973 Max Ferdinand Richter Mulheimer Helenenkloster Auslese Riesling from the Mosel; '73 was my birth year and, while not a stand-out year around the world, this was very special.
What would be your first piece of advice to young winemakers just starting out?
Jump in and get your hands dirty. It's pretty hard to be passionate about making wine from behind a computer.
In career terms, where would you like to be in 10 years?
Being more a function of my environment than economy, I've never really made any decisions based on commercialism or specific ambition. It's always what puts a smile on my face. I hope I'm still making wine in this fashion and that KT and The Falcon is being enjoyed by people the globe over.
What do you see as the biggest challenge to face winemakers in the next few years?
Our challenges won't change. We must still remain relevant and add value to the consumer while dealing with changes to our environment, economy and perception. That's what makes it so exciting.
What's the one rule you always follow when it comes to selecting wines for your own consumption?
They have to inspire me and have drinkability and personality. I look for wines made with detail and good spirit; wines that have layers of interest and reflect the special part of the world they are grown from.
What feature do you feel most defines the Clare Valley as a winemaking region?
Our unique continental climate allows us to produce riesling of such delicacy and finesse among reds of sweet fruit concentration, and there are very few places in the world that can celebrate the same. With warm days and cool nights during the ripening period, it's a winemaker's paradise.
Who's been the most influential person in your career to date and what was the greatest lesson they taught you?
I've been fortunate to have worked with so many wonderful mentors over the years but without doubt it was my grandfather Jim - who supported me through university and taught me to work hard and be thirsty for knowledge. He also taught me how to drive - although I still can't reverse park very well.
What's your favourite part of the whole winemaking process?
I love the lead-up to vintage. All the excited anticipation and creative energy is such a boost. Knowing that you're about to embark on an intensive project which will reflect where you were at that time of your life is quite an inspiration.
Do you have a soft spot for any particular variety?
At the risk of sounding completely and utterly obsessed, it's quite clear that the natural choice for me (even in moments of an identity crisis) is Clare Valley riesling - it's something about the fact that, a little like me, it looks back at itself around the late '80s/early '90s and questions the choice of style, direction and future potential - only to discover over the years that with greater understanding and gentle, loving care it now has far more lively focus, is better balanced and should never, at any stage, be underestimated.
How would you describe your own personal wine collection?
I don't know how it happens but the only way I can describe my personal wine collection is evaporative. Since I like to enjoy them, I struggle to hold onto bottles for too long and so I'm constantly moving, emptying and restacking. Some constants are Clare Valley riesling and Champagne. I have now resorted to hiding places.
What's the most coveted item in your wine collection?
I have a magnum of the first riesling I ever made. It's an absolute dog and so it won't be opened. It's there to remind me how much I've learnt over the years and inspiration to always strive for the best.