Daylesford stands alone

THE DAYLESFORD wine area has traditionally been associated with the bigger, more important Macedon Ranges region. It's been the little brother, the quiet one keeping a low profile but all the while getting bigger and stronger.

Visitors to Daylesford, admittedly a spot more closely associated in the minds of most tourists with natural spas, will notice it is reaching full maturity. Its wines are now marketed separately and the region's 15 producers even have their own promotional slogan - A Little Closer To Heaven - which refers to areas like Musk, which at 800m, aren't just cool but downright cold.

Cameron Leith, whose family is best known for its Passing Clouds wines at Kingower (near Bendigo) were moved to plant at Musk more than 10 years ago when they foresaw water (or the shortage of it) becoming a major issue at Kingower. Cameron, like many in Daylesford, is confident the area will eventually gain national attention for its chardonnay and pinot noir table wines, as well as sparklings. "The sparklings," he says, "are so different to the ones coming out of Macedon, with lovely crisp apple and pear flavours."

Daylesford also enjoys a tradition that Macedon doesn't. Italian grape varieties have been growing there since the 1850s, with pinot grigio and dolcetto (the dry version, not the sweet) looking most promising.